On the road we get thrown some amazing curves. Sometimes you see them coming and sometimes you don’t!
There is a motorcycle riding expression that goes something like this: ‘When life throws you a curve, lean into it!’
This trek was all about leaning into it, whatever ‘it’ is.
Day1: Poupas to Millau
We rolled out of Poupas at 11h00 and rode for eight hours and I mean pretty much eight hours straight! On our Sassy sidecar we have found a maximum of 250 km per day is lots. This day was over 300 km. Due to the winding curvy roads and sidecar lift it can be slow going, even when you lean into it. Normally these low speeds are all the better to see what’s around you but on this day we had a different view…Fog!
We had hoped to see the Aveyron Gorges but the weather just would not cooperate. Leaning into the fog, mist, rain, sleet and snow we pressed on! Our Sassy mule plowed through it all without a problem. Straight through, with only a stop for coffee in Cordes-sur-Ciel, fuel at Villefranche-de-Panat and a chance to eat our packed sandwiches along the road.
Bite the road and lean into it!
Believe it or not, we never needed to engage the Ural’s 2-wheel drive! We were able to lean our body weight around moving pressure to the tires as needed for traction. Between this technique and the packing distribution, we had a good bite on the road all day.
In spite of the weather it was a great day of riding through Montauban, Negrepelisse, Bruniquel, Penne, Cordes-sur-Ciel, Tanus, Villefranche-de-Panat, Les Canbieres Saint Beauzély and then into Millau. After a quick dinner at the Hôtel Bowling de Millau lanes we nestled into a warm room for some sleep. This economical accommodation offers up a little fun, if you are game!
Day 2: Millau to Nîmes
After the arduous and misty journey the day before, we were happy to see the sun shining brightly; so we leaned into the blacktop for another day.
The tallest cable-stayed bridge in the world
We paid the toll to ride over the Millau Viaduct cable-stay bridge. A stop at the tourist info centre allowed us to walk up to the north abutment for a photo opp. What a view of the valley!
Keep in mind that if you ride a sidecar rig the toll bridge camera ogres will recognize you as a small car and the fees for moto will not be applicable.
The crossing was amazing and the vistas stunningly beautiful! We were in awe. The wind was coming through the valley at a good clip but the side barriers helped keep us from getting blown around. Of course we leaned into it when required! Check out this video by the company who actually designed the bridge for some great perspectives. Just simply Incredible!
The Causses of the Massif Central
This day would produce some more surprises for us as we crossed the southern edge of the Massif Central limestone plateaus. These plateaus are called ‘Causses’ in the Occitan dialect. Beautiful rock formations popped out of the earth all round us, like stacked blocks placed there by giants. Sam and I are continually struck by the vast diversity of landscape in France as we lean ever forward into this trip.
Cirque de Navacelles found by chance
We thought we had missed seeing the gorges altogether but we were wrong. As we traveled along the D25, a rally car passed us at a slow speed, obviously checking us out, then disappeared ahead. Suddenly, we were descending into the most incredible switchback filled gorge. We later determined this to be the Cirque de Navacelles, an ‘incised meander’. We definitely leaned into this ride! What a great way to direct us to our final destination for the day, Nîmes.
Overnight in Nîmes then onward
Nîmes is an incredible little town that plays out bigger than you think. The official population is around the 150K mark but I’m sure that in the summer it swells exponentially. There is an intact Roman amphitheatre in the centre of town! As a Roman history buff I am intrigued. A drive through the city centre and around the imposing arena was all we had time for but we will be back for sure.
Day 3: Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
Leaning into the Mistral wind we were off to Saint-Rémy-de-Provence for Sassy’s spa day. Sam found us an incredible little spot to unpack for a couple of nights. La Balancelle was to be our home base; in a perfect location with secure parking. ($85CAD per night-$56 CAD grocery and wine) After unpacking the bike we rode over to Classic Bike Esprit to meet Neil and Sarah, the proprietors.
Classic Bike Esprit
They couldn’t be a more inviting couple if they tried. Our impromptu visit to confirm an appointment for the next day was met with tea and cake and an hour of conversation! Sarah and Neil are quite the phenom in this area. She runs a sidecar school and he the mechanics shop.
The couple started off operating a classic motorcycle tour company and have transformed into, primarily, a Ural dealership. Classic Bike Esprit has serviced and supplied moto’s to many folks over the years including: A sidecar travel icon Hubert Kriegel and his timeless ride. His stories have been truly inspirational for us over the last few years.
Spa day for Sassy and training for Dan
The next morning I showed up at 09h00 on the dot and got to work. Neil is a great fella to spend a day with. He was so patient and accommodating. He basically cleared his calendar to teach me how to do a full service on Sassy! The instruction came with a story and actual damaged parts to demonstrate each anecdote and process. What a fantastic experience! I really wish I had taken a couple of photos in the shop!
Thank you so much Neil and Sarah!
We left there confident in our machine. She was running like a top!
See for yourself. Tour their website or better yet go there and meet them in person. I promise you will not be disappointed! Classic Bike Esprit.
Lean into it!
Whether it be the winding road, slippery conditions, gale force winds, crossing incredible man-made wonders of engineering, researching the history of an area or learning how to maintain Sassy, Sam and I really lean into our life on the road.
You can do it too! We are just regular people who talked about making a break for it and then made it happen!
We hope you liked this post. Pass it on! A special thanks to all our supporters who are sharing this site on their social feeds and follow along with our mid-life gap year! Be sure to check out the 3 videos in the playlist below showcasing this adventure.
Take care and keep on travelling,
Dan&Sam
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