A motorcycle run through central France in February can be a veritable dog’s breakfast of weather. Be prepared for everything but most importantly:
Expect unrivalled picturesque views!
We strode out of Vailhaquès on a lovely sunny morning ready to ride north through central France. We were in search of the UK border before our Schengen time ran out. The weather could not have been more inviting for a motorcyclist. We love the sunny and clear travel days. The stunning scenery, floral forest scents, purr of the motor, tastes of roadside grub and the feeling of air rushing by, equally excite and calm the soul.
Approaching the Parc National des Cévennes we started to notice some snow up on the hilltops in the distance. We did not stop to take many photos on this day of travel. Instead, enjoying the scenery and freedom of the road, were the plat du jour.
Check out our video below and you will see why there are not many photos!
The road must go on!
All warmed up and recharged after our harrowing escape from the south of France we continued the march north. We decided to head for Moulins and stay a couple of nights for our anniversary. Unbeknownst to us at the time, Moulins would turn out to be a treasure of a town.
Moulins
La Demeure de Babette
Our arrival in Moulins was later in the day and without any place to stay, we had to dig around a bit. As luck should have it, we managed to find a delightful Chambres d’ Hôtes called ‘La Demeure de Babette.’
The proprietors, Christian and Babette, were inviting and lovely. This most delightful French couple open their 18th century city home to guests and deliver top notch hospitality.
Christian’s opening line to us as he helped with our bags: “Welcome to your home, this is your home now!”
From the ‘rock star’ motorcycle parking at the front door we could never have guessed what was inside. We entered to a grand front entry which flowed through to garden doors and a glimpse of an incredible courtyard.
It is incredible how deceiving the street side facades are!
On our left, a spectacular staircase rose, ascending to the upper floors where there were 5 well appointed rooms. Each suite has its very own en-suite. Functional period furniture adorn the spaces accentuating its beautiful historic feel.
We’ve said it before but it needs to be reiterated that the people make the place.
Our first night we sat and sipped wine while Christian poured through a detailed review of the local sights, history, stories of their family life and second home in west Africa. We were made to feel so welcome in their grand home. Christian’s family has owned it for a number of generations. Ancestral photos and keepsakes draw your gaze at every vantage, taking the imagination on journeys to far flung places and local historic landmarks.
Babette booked dinner reservations for us at the Grand Café where we took our first meal in Moulins that night.
Their hospitality had no bounds. Upon mentioning it was our anniversary they immediately invited us to take champagne with them in the lounge room the next evening. Then Babette booked us in for a romantic lunch at Le Bístrot de Guillaume, a Michelin star restaurant. Their morning meals were delightful experiences with Babette’s culinary skills and Christian’s attentive dedication to service. Just an amazing experience.
Their daughter is set to take over the family guest house. If you are in Moulins and would like to be pampered at a bed and breakfast in the centre of it all, please do contact them: Chambres d’ Hôtes called ‘La Demeure de Babette.’
Walk Moulins and feel the history of this stunning city.
Sam and I love to walk everywhere we go and frequently take to the streets for a true feel for the community we are in. Moulins was no different. We walked through the cobbled side streets and took in the sights of this beautiful town.
The Grand Café is an experience not to be missed, if not only for the ambience of this spectacularly opulent building. Stained glass, hand painted ceilings and complicated plaster detailing adorn this Moulins institution.
Sam and I very rarely take tours. The Maison Mantin and Musée Anne-de-Beaujeu were exceptions to the rule. The completely restored 19th century bourgeoisie home of Louis Martin and previously private collection of Anne were incredible.
And again the road must go on
After two lovely nights in Moulins it was time to continue north. We slid up through Sens and Laon and more gorgeous countryside. The temperatures improved but the rain stayed on. It turned out that we were making good time despite the snow day and consistently rainy weather. As a result we decided to take a side trip to Belgium on the way! More on that on the next instalment.
Thank you for following along on our mid-life gap year. We are truly having the experience of a lifetime! Sharing our experiences with our close friends, family, internet community and frankly, anyone who is willing to listen, is truly the icing on the cake. 😉 Keep on passing it on and subscribing. Thank you!
Take care and keep on travelling!
Dan&Sam
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