Along the road to Bordeaux: La Gauvinière with Valerie and Charly

A three day respite

Along the road from Tours, France we realized that even with the round-a-bout blockades, brake issues and rainy day stops we were ahead of schedule for arrival in Poupas. Over lunch Sam and I discussed selecting a couple of three night stays for this leg of our journey. I had noticed a sweet looking little chambre d’hôtes less than a day north of Bordeaux in what looked like a park setting. It seemed to be just the place to take some rest days.

• A gîte is a renovated country home for rent that is usually set up for self catering. 
• A chambre d’hôtes is generally a bed and breakfast accomodation.

Last minute booking work around

We had not booked anything and as the day drew closer to sunset we stopped to check booking.com and secure a stay. The lovely La Gauvinière in the Marais Poitevin was high on my list. Unfortunately, it was unavailable online. I was kicking myself for not setting it up ahead of time. When I saw the place earlier, I just wasn’t sure if we would make it there in time as the brake service that morning had to take precedent. I decided to call the owner and try to sweet talk a stay. As luck would have it she answered and the place was available! Off to Liez and our home for the next three nights.

La Gauvinière

We arrived in Liez and just down the road was La Gauvinière a lovely little two room place in the country. The owner Valerie and her faithful companion Charly were waiting to greet us as we rode in the yard. We got settled and then I shot into Maillezais for some fuel and provisions. The necessities: wine and dried sausage! There are numerous small hamlets in the surrounding area to get all you need.

The area

The Marais Poitevin is an amazing area of western France. With its intricately designed canals and lovely walking paths it is a haven for the senses. Due to damages incurred to the original system during numerous wars, it was re-built by Dutch engineers on behalf of Louis XIII. This area is known as ‘Venise Verte’ or the ‘Green Venice’ of France. It is truly beautiful country and in my opinion not to be missed. I have added a link to Wikipedia with several reference sources that are very interesting. They explain its history in great detail. We stayed three nights in this tranquil area and they were fantastic.

Local fare to die for!

On our first night Valerie reserved us a table at a lovely restaurant in the nearby town of Damvix where we enjoyed a quiet meal. It is amazing how in this country there are fantastic restaurants in the middle of nowhere! A local aperitif was brought out to us as a warm welcome to La Gambille. Then course after course of delicious, perfectly prepared and presented plates. Local food including frog legs, fish soup, duck confit, fish fillet, vegetables, crème brûlée and sorbet. This delight was washed down with a half litre of wine. Hands down in the top two meals on this trip to date. Of course in a pinch you can always stop at a bread vending machine!

Breakfast at Valerie’s

At La Gauvinière Valerie provides a simple breakfast of coffee/tea, orange juice, bread and local jams. The best part is the morning conversations. She talked of growing up in this area then leaving as so many small town folks do, to explore the world. She lived and worked in the United States and in Paris for many years in marketing. Later in life she felt drawn back to the home of her youth, the Marais Poitevin. She needed to escape the noise and pressures of corporate big city life for a simple existence. For two years now she has been developing her beautiful and historic 200 year old farm property into the chambre d’hôtes and an organic vegetable growing operation. She is a lovely soul and her rescue dog Charly is also very sweet. Valerie is a passionate ambassador for the area and very knowledgable.

Le chien Charly

Each morning Valerie shared a story of her home. One of those was the heartfelt story of her Charly. He was a long term resident of a local animal shelter and had been in a cage most of his life. Upon entering the facility Valerie was overwhelmed by the number of dogs. When asked what kind of a dog she was looking for she simply asked for the one who had been there the longest. From this chance encounter the universe placed them together. And now, he follows her everywhere, they are inseparable. Don’t forget to give him a wee bit of brioche when you stay, it’s Charly’s favourite.

Lovely walking paths

Throughout our stay, Sam and I walked the side roads and canal trails near Liez. What a peaceful and lovely experience. The bridges were too numerous to count connecting adjacent properties for agriculture and community. You can see in the photos that the locals prune the trees to about 6 foot stubs. Valerie said this is a sustainable way for them to heat their homes. About every 10 years they top the trees, which double as hedge rows, and buck up the limbs for fire wood. These cuttings are bundled and stacked to wood sheds all around the country side.

The Poitou Donkey

On our way out we noticed these donkeys. They appeared to have dreadlocked hair hanging off their sides! Of course we had no idea about them at first, thinking they just had a winter coat. Nope, Sam looked into long hair donkeys and came across the Poitou Donkey. This is an animal selected for its size to be bred with the Poitevin horse and produce mules. A very localized breed which was almost extinct. Check out the link above.

More food

A couple more restaurants we patronized in the area were the Hotel de Vendée in Fontenay Le-Comte and a small crêperie in Saint-Sigismond called Le Cabanin du Marais. The Hotel provided a reasonably priced set menu with excellent service. Le Cabanin du Marais is a recent startup and plans to service the area year round. They serve savoury crêpes such as the ‘le burger’ as well as dessert crêpes. The owners are a couple of ladies and were a delight. We had fun talking to them all the while muddling through in French and English. They came outside after dinner to see Sassy and hear of our adventures. We were happy this establishment was open during the winter months. It is a rarity in rural Marais Poitevin for that time of year. We brought their business cards back to Valerie with our recommendation to her future guests.

Come here if you are in France

Whether you cycle through, backpack or drive to this area we highly recommend the experience. Be sure to touch base with Valerie and check out the restaurants. Take a walk among the many canals. In the summer rent a flat boat and paddle around. You won’t be disappointed by this stunning scenery or the people who live there. 

Stay tuned, read, comment and share our adventures with your friends! Next to Bordeaux!

Take care and keep on travelling,

Dan&Sam 

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